Restoration and Maintenance TipsThis is a featured page

Ever wonder what grit sand paper to use. This chart from www.automotivetouchup.com is real helpful. They can match any color you may need by giving them the paint code from your data plate. Dan B

Sand Paper Selection Chart

40 is the roughest we carry, 1500 is the finest. The Sand Paper Assortment pack contains 180, 320, 600, 1000, and 1500 grit sandpaper sheets.

Grit Description
File with holder Shaping body filler/Bondo


40 very rough sanding/grinding before bodywork. (not waterproof)
80 grit rough sanding before bodywork, and for sanding body filler.
180 grit final sanding and feather edging body filler.
320 grit optional final sanding before using primer and also for sanding spot putty.
400 grit rough sanding primer or for fine sanding spot putty.
600 grit final sanding primer, sand with 600 before using basecoat colors.
1000 grit wet sanding a panel to be repainted.
1200 grit wet sanding a panel to be repainted.
1500 grit final sanding clearcoat to remove defects before polishing with rubbing compound. also can be used for sanding down a panel to be repainted instead of 1000 or 1200.
_____________________________________________________
Automatic transmission fluid: What’s happening
Reprinted with Permission from Old Cars Weekly

February 06, 2009
byWilliam C. "Bill" Anderson, PE
Several months ago, I wrote about the changes in engine oil formulation. While the hobby has now generally digested the change to GF-4 oils, the auto and lubricants industries are hard at work on more changes, namely GF-5, to come in a couple of years.

Changes in lubricant specifications are not limited to just engine oils — automatic transmission fluid (ATF) is also undergoing its own transformation. When automatic transmissions first entered the marketplace on a regular basis, a single ATF meeting the requirements of the American manufacturers was the norm. General Motors called its ATF Dexron II and Ford’s specified fluid was labeled Mercon.

There was no change from 1949 through the late 1980s except for Ford. It required Type F in its automatics between 1961 and ’81. The late 1980s saw the introduction of Dexron-III/Mercon that posed no concern for car collectors because the new-specification ATF was backward compatible.

During the last two decades, there have been significant changes in automatic transmission design — more speeds, computer controls and more. In the quest to improve efficiency and economy, even more changes are on the horizon. These goals and the changes in transmissions have required changes in ATF. No longer is one specification applicable to all, as each auto manufacturer is developing its own ATF specifications to fit the specific needs of its own transmission. As a result, the license granted to lubricant manufacturers to produce Dexron-III/Mercon was terminated in June 2007.

GM introduced Dexron-IV in 2005 for its 2006 models. Ford unveiled Mercon LV in 2007 and also has Mercon V for most pre-2008 models and Mercon SP for vehicles with six-speed transmissions. Chrysler has ATF+4 for its cars and the foreign manufacturers have theirs.

The primary difference between the new ATF lubricants and their predecessors is their viscosity. The new fluids are lower viscosity; their kinematic viscosity is typically on the order of 6 centiStoke (cSt) at 100 degrees C, while the older fluids are in the range of 7.0 to 7.5 cSt (heavier) at 100 degrees C. The lower viscosity helps improve low temperature performance and reduces friction for potential improvements in fuel economy. The additive mix in the newest fluids also offers improved oxidation stability, shear stability and friction durability to provide more consistent shift performance over the life of the fluid.

What does this mean for collector car owners?

The good news is that all the new ATF lubricants are backward compatible. That is, Dexron-IV can be used in all GM transmissions back to the beginning. The same is true for Chrysler’s ATF+4 for all prior Chrysler transmissions unless Dexron was specified, and Mercon V for Ford transmissions. The only exception is the 1961 to ’81 Ford transmissions that require Type F fluid.

Some lubricant companies, other than the car manufacturers, produce an ATF that meets multiple performance standards. Read the label carefully if you are using any of these fluids.
William C. “Bill” Anderson, P.E., has been involved with the automotive hobby for more than 30 years with experience ranging from hot rods, to sports cars, to sports car racing, and to restoration of vehicles from the 1930s through the `80s. He is an author, magazine editor, car show judge and professional engineer. A member of several car clubs and a leader in some, through Anderson Automotive Enterprises he restores and appraises cars.
____________________________________________
Death by Oil?
(Reprinted with permission from Old Cars Weekly June 23, 2009)

June 23, 2009
byWilliam C. “Bill” And erson, P.E.
In days long ago, there was little question about which oil to use in cars.

In the “good ol’ days,” hobbyists didn’t have a worry in the world
about motor oil. There were few choices when these Birds rolled off the assembly line.

Owners used lightweight oil in the winter and heavyweight oil in the summer. Then, detergents were added so another choice was introduced — detergent or non-detergent. After further development by oil chemists, multi-viscosity oils were offered, eliminating the need to change oil weights with the seasons. That situation remained the same into the late 1970s.

The late 1970s saw the introduction of synthetic oils, e.g. Mobil 1, based on Group IV polyalphaolefin or Group V ester, to improve oil longevity. Oil types thereafter remained unchanged for several years. Beginning in the early 1990s, many changes to engine oils have occurred as engine manufacturers and oil industry chemists worked to comply with environmental regulations and to increase fuel mileage. Most of the changes were “backward compatible,” i.e., oils developed for modern engines could be used with older engines for which they were not purposely designed. Some believe the advent of the latest type — with SM marked on the container — compromised backward compatibility.

A little about ZDP
ZDP (Zinc dithiophosphate) in the range of 0.03 percent was first added to engine oil more than 60 years ago to control bearing corrosion.

In the mid 1950s, Chrysler and Oldsmobile engaged in a horsepower race using high-lift camshafts, and both experienced camshaft scuffing and wear problems. These problems were overcome by better metallurgy for camshafts and lifters, phosphating the camshaft and increasing the level of ZDP to 0.08 percent. Another outcome of these problems was the development of a battery of industry-wide “Sequence” oil tests, including tests for valve train scuffing and wear. These tests have continued to evolve and improve ever since.

Some oil suppliers, believing if some ZDP was good, more would be better, added increased levels of ZDP. Unfortunately, we later learned that, with more than 0.14 percent ZDP, long-term wear increased, even though break-in wear was reduced. It was also discovered that at about 0.20 percent phosphorous, the ZDP started attacking the grain boundaries in the iron, resulting in camshaft spalling.

In the 1970s, the ZDP level was set at 0.10 percent phosphorous to take advantage of its antioxidant properties. Increased antioxidancy was needed to protect the oil in Cadillacs pulling big Airstream trailers from thickening to the point of not pumping.

Today, other ashless antioxidants that contain no phosphorous are used to address this problem. The aforementioned Sequence IIIG test is meant to simulate an OHV flat tappet engine in a truck pulling a loaded cattle trailer across the desert on a hot day.

Latest developments
The purpose of engine oil is to provide a physical barrier — an oil film — that separates moving parts to decrease wear and friction. It also serves as a cooling agent. More than 95 percent of the oil is the base oil with the remainder being a series of additives.

Detergents carry away wear particulates and other contaminants. They also assist in neutralizing acids formed by the breakdown of oil and combustion by-products.

Dispersants control contamination from low-temperature operation. Inhibitors control corrosion, rust and foaming. Viscosity index improvers control the viscosity of multi-grade oils. Pour point depressants improve cold temperature fluidity. Anti-wear additives make up the difference.

In the quest to improve car fuel mileage and avoid polluting the environment, engine designers have made a number of changes in recent years. The use of roller lifters instead of flat lifters in pushrod engines or overhead valves requiring springs of less pressure and improved bearings are among the more notable changes in the quest to reduce friction and enhance fuel economy.

Computer controls and better catalytic converters address the pollution problem. These changes in engine design have been accompanied by demands on oil suppliers to provide different engine oil.
Of primary concern to collector car owners has been the steady reduction in the anti-wear additive ZDDP (zinc diakyl dithiosphosphate) as oil types have evolved from SH to SJ to SL to the current SM. Both zinc and phosphate are key to preventing wear. Unfortunately, they also contaminate catalytic converters when emitted in the engine’s exhaust. The two changes work in combination; modern engine design with less opportunity for wear enables a reduction in the anti-wear additives that pollute.

Oil for collector cars should have 0.12 to 0.14 percent (also stated as 1,200 to 1,400 ppm) of each of the main anti-wear chemicals, zinc and phosphorous. This concentration of zinc and phosphorous was reported in the 1977 SAE technical paper titled, “Cam and Lifter Wear as Affected by Engine Oil ZDP Concentration and Type.” With the SM-specification oils, these anti-wear chemicals have been reduced to 0.06 to 0.08 percent, or reductions approaching 50 percent; the ultimate goal is their complete elimination.

The primary reason for concern among collectors about the ZDP level is the camshaft and lifters in overhead valve engines and finger followers in SOHC engines. Here, scuffing and wear, particularly during break-in, and chemical corrosion of the lifters are noted as potential problems by Olree and McMillan. As noted before, this problem has been addressed by engine manufacturers through improved metallurgy in the design and manufacture of camshafts and lifters and by phosphating the camshafts.

The rigorous quality control provided by the major engine manufacturers in the production of valve train components may not exist in the world of aftermarket parts and from providers of reconditioned parts.

Since collector car owners must often rely on these companies when rebuilding engines, poor quality in replacement parts could be a primary cause of excessive scuffing and wear that is encountered.

What’s a collector to do?
Regardless of what you believe after hearing the professionals, my recommendations are conservative and will produce no harm, even though SM-specification oil has successfully passed actual wear tests conducted with two different engine types.

The first test engine used to assess camshaft scuffing and wear, the Sequence IVA test, is a Nissan 2.4-liter single-overhead camshaft engine with slider finger followers.

The other test engine, a General Motors 3.8-liter overhead-valve engine with flat tappets, a design similar to that used by GM in the 1980s, is used to evaluate cam and lifter wear in the Sequence IIIG test.

Oil intended to help
Generally, it may no longer be good practice to use SM-marked oils in collector car engines. I will provide a brief overview of the information on engine oil intended to help collector car owners. Extensive information is available and links to that information on the Internet are included at the end of this article.

A couple of notes to begin. The information provided is for those who regularly drive their collector cars, not those who engage in competition events with their collector cars. Also, I have no preferences regarding synthetic oils, because their extended life benefits are of little consequence for most collector car use. It is interesting that today’s synthetic oils have generally not based on the Group IV polyalphaolefin or Group V ester (the original base) since the mid 1990s. Then, a court decision declared the term “synthetic” a marketing term. Thereafter, synthetic oils could be made by hydrotreating petroleum-base oils. Today, most synthetics are treated Group II or III petroleum-base oils with perhaps a small percentage of Group IV or Group V components.

Do not use SM-type oils if you regularly drive your car for a few thousand miles. The type of oil is found in the top half of the API (American Petroleum Institute) “donut” on each container.

Also avoid oils that read “Energy Conserving” in the donut. You can use SM-type oil by adding one-half ounce of General Motors’ EOS (Engine Oil Supplement) for each quart of SM-type oil installed to improve its anti-wear characteristics. Do not add more; more is not better. Other ZDDP additive options are listed later in this article.

Another alternative is CI-4 HD oil for diesel engines. These oils have more anti-wear additives. However, be sure to check the container as a new diesel oil, CJ-4, has been introduced to go along with the new (Jan. 1, 2007) low sulfur diesel fuel. Given the preponderance of pre-2007 diesel engines operating, the CI-4 oil should be available for quite some time.

Here are a few more recommendations that have served me well over the years:
Unless an engine has been completely rebuilt and thoroughly cleaned in the process, do not switch to a synthetic if it hasn’t been used in the engine. Also, do not switch to a detergent-containing oil if only a non-detergent oil has been used. I regularly use 15W40 multi-viscosity oil as it imposes no limitation on starting down to 15 degrees Fahrenheit and provides good protection for hot weather driving.

Summary
I have just hit the essential points of this important issue for collector car owners. However, engine oil design and application is a complex issue. For those who want to know more, a couple of Internet links are suggested: www.lubricants.s5.com and www.Lnengineering.com/oil. The first site provides a good overview and the second is more detailed. Although the second focuses on Porsche engines, the information it contains and the associated references can be used for all collector cars.

Final thoughts
The consensus of expert opinion by those regularly engaged in developing engine oils based on objective tests is that modern engine oils, including the most recent category, SM, will provide satisfactory lubrication for collector cars. These oils are more than adequate for the typical collector car owners who drive relatively few miles under unstressed conditions. If for some reason you are uncomfortable with this preponderance of professional opinion, then use a ZDDP oil additive or an oil with ZDDP already in it, listed at the end of this article.

Rather than focus on the oil composition, it is much more important to focus on the quality of materials used if and when you rebuild your engine and the procedures used in its assembly and break-in.

Also, be sure to change your oil at least once each year.



danielbi
danielbi
Latest page update: made by danielbi , Jul 10 2010, 11:43 AM EDT (about this update About This Update danielbi Edited by danielbi


view changes

- complete history)
Keyword tags: painting sanding
More Info: links to this page
There are no threads for this page.  Be the first to start a new thread.